A Wave of Life

A big part of life in Hawaii is surfing. The waves are truely the way of life. When a swell is coming in, people are calling in sick, kids are cutting school, just to hit the waves. When you're out in the open water, there is so many emotions you experience in a session. I asked people in Hawaii to tell my camera a story of a session where they took something away from it, possibly life changing. I did't want know they're stories, because I wanted them to be alone in their thoughts, just like they were when riding that wave.